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How To Find The Right Size Bike To Fit You

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

A comprehensive bike fit to find the right size bike is useful for every cyclist. Whatever your discipline, cycling level or targets, your position on the bike is absolutely crucial for cycling comfort, enjoyment and performance.

There is no need to cycle in pain, risk injuries or throw away performance for the sake of a bad position – a single fitting session can eliminate niggles (lower back pain, a sore neck or painful knees) you’ve endured for years.

The key to fitting a bike is to treat yourself as an individual and not use a formula that says one rule works for everyone. We all have different flexibility, postural and skeletal issues, and a professional bike fitter will take all of these into consideration.

Bike fit

You needed to move slightly further back on your saddle and make sure you wasn’t sitting too high, as you were unable to drop your ankle. You'd also had a crash at some point, and one of your brake hoods was twisted, giving you some left shoulder pain.

A minor adjustment to your bars allowed to reach your brake levers while on the hoods, with your wrists pretty much straight. By changing your centre of balance on the bike we made sure he no longer had any tension running through your shoulders and will be able to relax your shoulders and alleviate neck and shoulder pain.

Firstly, sitting too far forward and putting too much pressure through your arms, shoulders and neck. But more importantly, your bars had a flat top that wasn’t angled correctly. This meant your wrists were slightly bent and you were putting way too much pressure through the palms of your hands. Over time, this can lead to carpal tunnel syndrome and possibly an operation. Hopefully, you will now enjoy your riding without those niggles.

One piece of advice we can give to all cyclists is not to copy the pros’ positions. Bradley Wiggins looks great in the saddle, but the position suits him and his flexibility, skeletal frame, core strength, limb length and riding style. It won’t necessarily work for you.

In addition to getting a bike fit, we’d always recommend a visit to an osteopath. They’ll be able to make sure your pelvis is aligned correctly. Pilates, core strength and yoga exercises will also help you support your body and add flexibility.

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

Cyclo-Cross Can Make You A Better Rider

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

Cyclo-cross bikes aren’t just for ’cross racing – they’re tough, versatile and great for winter training too. The challenging surfaces and obstacles you'll encounter in the rough stuff will make you a better, faster and fitter rider.

If you want to put some extra fun, skills training and traffic-free miles into your riding, find out more about the essential skills you’ll need with our handy guide below.

Cornering

Holding speed through corners and powering out of them is essential for all cycling disciplines.

Skills school: Set up a square with 20-30m sides. Ride around it hard for five minutes, recover for two minutes then repeat in the opposite direction. Practise braking skills, get used to the feeling of the bike sliding slightly under you and perfect your gear selection for sprinting out of corners.

Bunny hops

An essential skill for racers and a priceless road technique for hopping up kerbs or over potholes.

Skills school: Roll towards a stick on the ground at about 5mph. As you get close, stand up on the pedals with your feet level and your hands gripping the tops or the hoods of your bars. Rock backwards and bend your knees to lift the front wheel over the stick. Then, just before your back wheel hits the stick, jump up and push the bars away from you while rolling your wrists. This will lift the back of the bike up and over the stick.

Running dismounts

In cross racing, riders do this to clear some hurdles or before a section where they have to shoulder the bike. It’s equally useful for a commute if you’re in a hurry.

Skills school: Again, ride towards your stick on the ground slowly. When you get a few bike lengths away from it, unclip your right foot and swing it over the back of the bike onto the same side as your left. All your weight will be on your left foot until your right foot steps through onto the ground. As it makes contact with the earth, unclip your left foot and bring it forward for your next stride.

To start with, try unclipping your left foot and keeping it on the pedal before you swing your right leg over. Don’t try this with smooth soled road shoes – rubber soled touring, commuting or MTB-type SPDs are much safer. Practise until you get faster and smoother at doing this.

Running remounts 

Getting back on your bike at pace is just as important as dismounting at speed.

Skills school: With your hands on the top of the bar, leap onto the saddle so that both feet hit the pedals just an instant after you land on the saddle. To protect the family jewels, try to land off-centre and slightly at an angle, so that the top of your right leg takes the force. Then centre yourself.

Portage 

Running while carrying your bike is handy for unrideable terrain.

Skills school: Dismount as before but then reach down the left-hand side of the bike and grab the down tube with your right hand. Now lift the bike until the top tube is resting on your right shoulder. Meanwhile, use your left hand to hold the left-hand end of the bars. Once the bike is up, move your right hand to grip the left-hand side of the bars from underneath the down tube. This will keep the wheel from flapping around.

Going up 

Climbing steps or heading fast uphill is great for cycling fitness.

Skills school: Find an unrideable uphill bank or flight of steps 10-15m long. Ride up to this hard, dismount, shoulder the bike and power on up. Jog, roll or walk back down and then remount at pace before repeating.

Starting sprints 

Great if you have to stop and start on a commute or for the beginning of a race.

Skills school: Warm up for 10 minutes then, from a track stand, put in a hard sprint effort, with smooth shifts that get you to race pace quickly. You should do five 20-second efforts with a 60-second recovery.

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

Customer's bicycle picture

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

Customer: Tommy
Country: Sweden

Purchase:
ys-FM032  580 mm                                    
ys AL40c   red hub     alloy clincher                
ys-SK02                                                  
ys-HRB05 110*420                              
ysbike carbon road bike mikroshift groupset  
tektro R741 blac if possible red with black    
ys-CS01  legth 172,5  teeth  53/39t             
chain: sl 100cr                                       
ysbike i-link black brake cables                 
ysbike i-link black for derailleur                
ys-BC-05 * 2

 alt

 

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

Night Riding Tips

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

Night Riding Tips

Riding Carbon bike is a great thing to do day or night. Although it is dangerous to do night riding comparing with daytime riding,
a number of factors make more and more riders join in the night riding, then how do we avoid the dangerous happen?

Here are some simply but important tips for your reference:
1. Calm Down in every minutes when you are riding:
that is to say you should always keep a highly concentration. Anyway, being a positive rider can bring you more joys whatever daytime or night.

2. Light:
Riding with lights when it’s dark makes cyclists much more visible
and gives other traffic much more time to see and react to you.
Don’t just depend on street-lighting to help you see in the dark;
use lights and reflective gear to help others see you.

If possible, Wear reflective pant-straps, jackets, vests and other gear.
they makes you more visible to others, as does having reflectors on your bike.
But reflectors only reflect under certain lighting conditions,
and even then they aren’t enough by themselves to be seen at night–particularly on bike paths and other low-light areas.
Actually, It is responsibility for not only  you yourself's safty but other people's safty.

3.Speed:
Don't riding so rush in the streets or roads where are crowd of people, bicycles, or cars.

4. seeing and listening:
since the visuality is not so good at night, listening should be put in a key point.
listening to the music when you are riding on night is not a suggestion.

These are some small tips from ACEBIKE.
If you have some more good ideas, welcome to leave you comment and share with other riders.

Enjoy your riding, enjoy your life!

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

26er VS 27.5er VS 29er

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

The 26er
Pros: Excellent on steep and stepped climbs. Easy to accelerate out of momentum sapping situations. Braking was strongest, especially at the bottom of steep descents. By far the most responsive to pumping the trail. A light-feeling that encourages the rider to hop over or around obstacles. Cons: Descending is intimi dating, especially after spending time on the other two MTB wheel sizes. This bike requires more rider input and a bigger commitment. Rider position has a bigger effect on how the bike handles and responds. While a rider can “roll” a techie section on the larger carbn fiber wheels, the 26er rider has to attack and maintain enough speed to stay on top of the ruts, rocks and flat-edged bumps. The rider has to work on looking ahead, as the 26er places the rider lower over the front.

The 27.5er(650b mountain bike)
Pros: it has a nimble feel that is way closer to the 26er than the 29er, but it doesn’t require the rider to work as hard. Your body position always feels neutral. You can pump the 27.5er along the trail, and when the trail heads downward, it allows the rider to remain relaxed. You don’t need to attack rough sections. These wheels do a good job of staying on top of the rough stuff, and the front end goes where you want it to go. Cons: We couldn’t come up with a ride negative. It doesn’t steer as fast as a 26er, but we never found a trail so tight that this made a difference. It didn’t roll over the rough sections as smoothly as the 29er, but again, it wasn’t a big enough difference to put the 27.5 rider off the wheel of the 29er.

The 29er
Pros: The big china carbon wheelsets are great for descending. They smooth out nasty trail that would have you puckered on the 26er. The added confidence inspires you to remain more relaxed as the wheels float over rocky terrain. The big hoops offer the best traction of the bunch, both in corners and on loose climbs. This bike requires the least amount of body English to stay hooked up (going up or down). Crewers noted they remained seated longer in the 29er. Once up to speed, the bike holds momentum well—and holding momentum is what the 29er is all about. Cons: Getting up to cruising speed takes more effort. Steep climbs or regaining speed following a momentum- zapping misstep is noticeably tougher. The only plus here is out-of-the-carbon-saddle efforts work great because the rear tire maintains traction. The large alloy wheels don’t respond as well to pumping the trail, and lofting the wheel requires more effort. This bike doesn’t have that lively squirt of acceleration you feel on both the 26er and 27.5er when working the backside of a whoop. The larger rotor up front wasn’t enough to give this bike the braking power we wanted.

 

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

Positive feedback for ACEBIKE product and service

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

Some of positive feedback for ACEBIKE product and service on roadbikereview.com

jckeane write:
I ordered a pair of 50 mm clinchers and handlebars from ACEBIKE. I had no problem with communication. He replied to every email of mine, and said it would take 4 weeks to ship. I paid a little extra for DHL shipping. ACEBIKE sent me a tracking number on a Friday and i received them on Monday.Quality seems very good and i would order from ACEBIKE again for sure.


Bridgey write:
Received mine fairly quickly despite Chinese New Year. All looks good. Didn't receive spokes but I believe Stefano is fixing this minor issue. Had them on my truing stand and tested spoke tension with a Park spoke tension tool. I'm a bit of a perfectionist, a few spokes were a notch out or 2. Nothing to cry about. I retensioned them, retrued the wheel and they look fine. I am 95kg's so am waiting til I lose a few more kgs before riding them. ACEBIKE says they wheels are strong enough for me, but I prefer to wait. So they are nice paper weights at the moment.I'd buy again for sure. It is the cheapest carbon wheel you can buy with the quality that is similar to bigger name brands. Worth it in my opinion, especially now they are using lighter spokes.


SBH1973 write:
I just did some business with ACEBIKE and I have to say that they were pretty amazing. I've got to give credit where it's due. Customer service was great (quick email replies, skype chats) and payment made simple. So, I'm sure some folks are pretty unhappy with them for good reasons, but I was impressed and will buy from them again.I did suggest that they would do well to purchase advertising on this forum. It would, most of all, buy them some good will. They told me that they are planning to do this. We'll see.

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

How To Get Your Seat Height Right

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

Setting the correct seat height would seem to be such a fundamental part of cycling that you would have thought the boffins had agreed long ago on the best method. But you’d be wrong.
One thing all the experts agree on however is that if you get the height wrong, the effects can be catastrophic. A brand new study suggests that setting the height too low can decrease time to exhaustion by as much as 12 per cent.
Consequently cyclists with limited time on their hands might actually get more out of a shorter session by lowering their seats to a sub-optimal level so as to make it harder.
It’s an interesting theory, but even knowing how to get it wrong presupposes that you know how to get it right, and many don’t.  Read on to find out exactly how to do it.

1 The Heel method

This is the one every bike shop owner or gym assistant will tell you whenever you clamber onto the saddle. You place the heel of your shoe on the bike pedal and set the saddle height so your leg is straight at the bottom of the bike pedal cycle with the pelvis remaining in a horizontal position. 

Despite this commonly heard method, there is virtually no scientific evidence to support it and it often leads to the saddle height being adjusted too low.

Professor Will Pelever of Mississippi University for Women has written several papers comparing methods for finding the best seat height and says, “The main problem is that this method does not take into account individual variations in femur, tibia and foot length.”

2 The 109% method

A more robust method was developed by Hamley & Thomas in a 1967 paper. They experimented with different carbon bike saddle heights and found that the ideal was achieved when the saddle was positioned at 109% of your inseam length when measuring from the pedal axle to the top of the seat height. 

Your inseam measurement is basically the length from your crotch to the floor. To calculate this, face a wall and put a thick-ish book between your legs as if it were a saddle. Ensuring that you are standing straight with your heels on the floor, mark a line along the top of the book edge touching the wall. 

The distance from the floor to the height of the mark is your inseam measurement. It’s best to measure it several times and take an average. 

This has proved an extremely popular method and is recommended by many top-level coaches. Yet a recent study by Professor Pelever found that it was inferior to the Holmes method (see below) both in terms of power output and economy.

3 The LeMond method

This is a popular variation on the 109% method and pioneered by the three time Tour de France winner Greg LeMond.

Also using inseam length as a guide, this formula calculates 88.3% of your inseam length and uses it to measure the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat height.

Interestingly, Pelever has shown that this often produces a different seat height from the 109% method and although it seems to work for many people, it may not be ideal for someone with particularly long femur bones.

4 The Holmes method

This was originally developed to reduce over-use injuries in cycling and takes a different approach entirely from the other three. 

It uses a device called a goniometer for measuring the angle of the knee joint at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Holmes recommends an angle of between 25 and 35 degrees and closer to 25 for those with a history of patella tendonitis.

This may all sound a bit technical and if so it’s probably best to go with one of the two inseam methods, but you can pick up a goniometer for around £20 from medical suppliers.

Pelever’s research has shown that setting your seat height based on a knee angle of 25 degrees outperforms all other methods (including an angle of 35 degrees). “Using a goniometer and a 25 degree angle is definitely the method I’d recommend,” he says.

Don’t rely on simply feeling comfortable either. “If you’ve been pedalling at a much lower bicycle road saddle height than is optimal, it may feel awkward in the beginning,” says Pelever. 

“However, as your body adapts (usually in two to three weeks) the new position will not only feel comfortable, but will improve performance in the long run.”

Of course, if you still feel uncomfortable after a few weeks then you will need to make changes. It’s best to use the 25 degree knee angle as a starting place. Have someone watch from behind to ensure that your hips do not rock back and forth across the saddle due to over extension at the bottom of the stroke. If that is the case then the angle may need to be adjusted upwards slightly for comfort.

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

How to Care for Bicycle Carbon Frame

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

Along with steel, aluminum and titanium, carbon has become one of the predominant materials used to make bicycle frames.Caring for carbon properly helps prolong the life of the bike and prevent damage to expensive components.

1.Park or store the carbon bike in a manner that minimizes pressure on the frame tubing. Clamps and straps used in repair stands and bike racks can crack composite tubing if tightened too much. If using a repair stand, secure the carbon bike by its seat post rather than around one of the tubes that comprise the frame.

2.Clean the frame regularly. Washing the bike keeps the protective surface paint clean while also allowing for the inspection of any cracks or fractures in the carbon. Washing the bike removes salt caused by sweat, which can have a corrosive effect on aluminum parts attached to the carbon frame.

3.Avoid leaving the carbon bike in excessively hot temperatures, such as might be found inside a parked car on a summer day. Too much heat can weaken the carbon composite material.

4.Study the owner's manual to learn the bicycle's various recommended torque values. Torque is used to tighten bolts on the bike, and recommended torque pressure prevents overtightening of these bolts. Overtightening of bolts can crush delicate carbon fibers and cause the bike to crack. Along with proper torque values, a torque wrench can be used to ensure proper tightening procedures.

5.Take the carbon bicycle in for routine maintenance to your local bike shop. During maintenance of the bicycle, a mechanic will inspect the carbon frame for any damage or cracks that might be overlooked by the untrained eye.

 

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

Paint a Carbon Bicycle

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

If you have a carbon-framed bike, painting your carbon bike is little different from painting a non-carbon bike, although you will have to be more careful with cleaning. Normally, you would need to sand the paint off a bike before painting, but this isn't possible with a carbon bike, so painting simply involves covering the previous color with the new.


Take the wheels and saddle off of your bike. You can also remove the handlebars if you are not painting these. Clean your bike using a damp rag and soap to remove all grease. Do not sand the bike, as this will seriously damage the carbon frame. When the bike is free from grease, dry it with a dry rag.


Paint a layer of primer onto the bike. Use a paint gun if you have one, or use spray paint cans which are available from a hardware store. Hold the paint gun or spray can 1 foot from the bike when spraying, for optimum coverage. Spray on a layer of primer and wait for it do dry. Spray a second layer on when the first is completely dry. Wait for the second layer to dry before touching up any uncovered areas. Wait for all the primer to dry before continuing.


Spray an undercoat layer onto the bike. Since most spray paints are slightly transparent, this layer will show through slightly, so choose a color such as silver or white which will improve the look of the final coat. Wait for this to dry.


Apply paint to the bicycle frame using a spray can or paint gun. Proceed slowly, covering all areas of the bike. Do this in natural, or at least good light, to avoid missing sections. When you have finished and the paint has dried, check to see if you need to touch up any areas. Paint a second coat all over if you do. This will make the color more vibrant.


Wait for the paint to dry and paint on a clear layer of protection. This forms a varnish on the bike frame, and will prevent weather damage. Wait for this to dry fully before reattaching the wheels and saddle.
 

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

How to Calculate Bike Frame Size

Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:37:00 PM America/Los_Angeles

As the late bicycling expert Sheldon Brown's website notes, with so many bicycle sizes and nuances in carbon frame geometry, determining the size of a carbon frame is no longer an exact science. Generally speaking, though, a tried-and-true old school method most often yields the correct frame size number. Being able to determine frame size is crucial in numerous situations, particularly if you are in the market for a used bike that does not bare a label indicating its size.
Lean your bicycle, or the bicycle in question, up against a wall or other sturdy surface. Locate the bottom bracket portion of the frame as well as the seat tube. The bottom bracket is the part of the frame that the crank arms fit into. The crank arms are the parts, on either side of the bottom bracket, that accept your pedals. The seat tube extends from the bottom bracket up to the part of the frame where you insert the seatpost. The seatpost goes into the top of the seat tube.
Measure from the center portion of the bottom bracket, along the seat tube to the top of the seat tube. You can use any type of tape measure to take this measurement.
Record your measurement in either inches or centimeters. Typically, mountain bike frames are measured in inches, ranging in size from extra-small (13-inches) to extra-extra-large (23 inches). Mountain bike sizes usually advance in 2-inch increments. Generally, you figure road bike frame sizes in centimeters. While variation is common from company to company, a typical size run ranges from extra-small (48-centimeters) to extra-extra-large (63-centimeters).
Tips & Warnings
Frame size is not always the most important number. Consider other aspects of frame geometry. For instance, top tube length measures the distance of the part of the carbon frame that extends from the seat tube to the head tube (where the fork and handlebar meets). This measurement is crucial when evaluating your horizontal fit on a bike.

Posted in News By ACEBIKE

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